Germaine Monteil (post 1945)
Continued from: Germaine Monteil
By 1945, Germaine Monteil was an established brand selling a range of exclusive, higher-priced perfumes and cosmetics. To preserve its exclusivity, sales were restricted to a limited number of outlets, mainly department stores, and the company engaged in price maintenance to stop price cutting until the Federal Trade Authority (FTC) ended this in 1982.
Higher prices gave Germaine Monteil better margins but exclusivity placed limits on growth. This had not been an issue while Germaine Monteil was getting established but it became more of a problem once the company had spread across the Americas.
To continue groing, Germaine Monteil expanded overseas. The logical choice for its first overseas venture was France and it established base in Paris, possibly at 39, Boulevard des Capucines, in 1950.
Above: 1954 Germaine Monteil stand at a trade show in Toulouse.
From France, Germaine Monteil then expanded across Western Europe opening branches in places such as Geneva, Vienna and Munich. In 1962, it also opened an Institut de Beauté in Paris.
Above: 1962 Germaine Monteil Institut de Beauté, Paris.
Opening facilities in Paris had two other benefits. It strengthened the company’s affiliations with France, something Germaine Monteil frequently alluded to, despite being a thoroughly American company. It also allowed Germaine Monteil to begin manufacturing its perfumes in France, and it began advertising that its perfumes were fully imported into the United States.
Above: 1951 Germaine Monteil Nostalgia and Rigolade perfumes and eaux de toilettes now made in France under the direction of Ernest-Pierre Meunier.
Making its perfumes in France improved their prestige which may have helped make them more competitive with French perfumes that reentered the American market after the war. It would also have increased their credibility with Germaine Monteil’s French and European customers.
The increasing importance of perfumes and their associated products led to the decision to make Monteil Parfums independent from Germain Monteil Cosmetiques in 1953. In 1959, Germaine Monteil also purchased Tuvaché, Inc., a New York perfume company established before the war by the playwright/screenwriter Bernadine Angus née Meadows [1894-1948] with the assistance of her advertising executive husband, Howard Weldon Angus [1890-1956].
Germaine Monteil, Paris registered the Germain Monteil trademark in Britain in 1951 but the company did not enter the British market until 1961. Offices were opened at 15 Rathbone Street, London but were moved to 2 Old Bond Street by 1963. Fortnum & Mason was the first London store to stock the range but was quickly followed by Selfridges, Debenham & Freebody, and others.
Above: 1962 Germaine Monteil, London.
By the time Germaine Monteil was sold in 1968 the company would be operating in South Africa and Australia in addition to the United States, Canada, Central and South America, the United Kingdom, and Europe. America was always its most important market.
American market
In 1950s America, Germaine Monteil came under significant pressure from a new department store entrant – Estée Lauder. Starting with a single account with Saks Fifth Avenue in 1948 with only four items in its range, Estée Lauder expanded rapidly during the 1950s, challenging anyone selling cosmetics in department stores.
The rising influence of Estée Lauder was probably the reason behind Germaine Monteil began, from 1958, to systematically offer ‘gifts with purchase’, a well-known Estée Lauder sales strategy. It may also be more than coincidence that Germaine Monteil opened in Britain in 1961, just after Estée Lauder opened its first overseas account with Harrods of London in 1960.
Other quandaries for Germaine Monteil were the changing demographics in the American cosmetic market and the arrival of television.
Advertising on television was expensive and risky and Germaine Monteil appears to have avoided it, most likely because it did not sell products in sufficient numbers to support the cost. This may have been a blessing because, as Revlon was to learn, television advertising tended to ‘cheapen’ a brand.
See also: Revlon and ‘The $64,000 Question’
In general, Germaine Monteil stuck with traditional newspaper advertising, placed in partnership with department stores, along with its own advertising in long-established magazines it had used before the war such as The New Yorker, Vogue, and Harper’s Bazaar. However, it also began to advertise in newer magazines that targeted younger women such as Mademoiselle (est. 1935), Glamour (est. 1939) and Seventeen (est. 1944).
Products
The Germaine Monteil range had changed little between 1940 and 1945 and was badly in need of refreshment. However, most of its new entrants arrived after 1950 and I have only identified a few lines debuting before then – Sensitone Lotion and Anatome Cream (1945); and Hand Balm, Medicated Skin Lotion, and Supersec Deodorant (1949).
I have no records that locate where Germaine Monteil was manufacturing its cosmetics in America until the early 1960s when documents appear for the Germaine Monteil Manufacturing Corporation operating from 38-14 30th Street, Long Island City, Long Island.
Skin-care
Anatome Cream (1945) was the first new skin-care cosmetic introduced by Germain Monteil after the war. It was also the company’s first hormone treatment cream. In the 1950s, the American Food and Drug Administration (FDA) placed limits on hormone creams, only allowing them to contain a maximum of 10,000 International Units (I.U.s) of estrogenic hormones per ounce of cream. Anatome Cream contained 6,000 I.U.s., which placed it in the middle-to-lower end of the range for this sort of product.
Following the introduction of Anatome Cream, Germain Monteil released a series of face creams containing ‘biologicals’ such as royal jelly and vitamins before including a number of proprietary ingredients. Unlike additives such as hormones, vitamins or royal jelly, which consumers could identify in cosmetics from other companies, proprietary ingredients could be claimed as exclusives, a marketing practice other cosmetic companies followed as well.
New face creams released by Germaine Monteil in the 1950s included: Super-Royal Cream (1956), formulated with 100 milligrams of royal jelly per ounce and vitamin A; Super-Moist Beauty Emulsion (1958), worn under make-up to restore the natural moisture levels of the skin; and Bio-Miracle Cream (1959) formulated with 110 milligrams of the proprietary ingredient Biotene – “a new biological substance that helps cell regeneration” – per ounce of cream.
Anatome Cream: “Be your age, but don’t look it! Use this rich cream compounded with vital activating hormones . . . to help recapture the glow of youth.”
Super-Royal Cream: “Constant use will make the skin look lighter, brighter . . . the texture will seem firmer, softer . . . the whole complexion will seem to glow.”
Super-Moist Beauty Emulsion: “[C]ombines surface moisturizers, for surface smoothness, with cell normalizers that stimulate the skin to produce and retain the natural inner moisture that gives the very glow of youth.”
Bio-Miracle Cream: “With its regenerative serum, facial lines and sallowness begin to vanish; skin tone lightens—becomes firmer, softer; creepy [sic] necks are smoothed. Use at night and under make-up.”
See also: Hormone Creams, Oils and Serums, Royal Jelly and Vitamin Creams
Cleansers
In 1945, Germaine Monteil had two cleansers in its range in addition to its Complexion Soap – Germaine Monteil Cleansing Cream for women with normal skin, and a Non-Liquefying Cleansing Cream for dryer skin types.
In 1955, Germaine Monteil added its first new cleanser in nearly twenty years – Super-3 Liquid Cleanser. It contained G-62, a ‘self-sterilizing’ factor, probably hexachlorophene, that protected the lotion and the skin from bacterial contamination. The Super-3 refers to the product’s three-way action as a cleanser, emollient and antibacterial.
See also: Hexachlorophene
Super-3 was followed by Super-Tone Skin Conditioner (1959), a clear face wash used to cleanse, and stimulate the skin.
Super-3 Liquid Cleanser: “[L]eaves your skin cleaner, fresher, healthier than ever . . . it does far more than remove surface soil and make-up . . . it cleanses deeply and thoroughly while it moisturizes your skin and removes bacteria; completely refreshes your skin.”
Super-Tone Skin Conditioner: “Besides acting as a marvelous wake-up for skin, it excels as a tightener for throat, neck, chin and cheeks. It’s a wholesome wash for disturbed skins; it helps reduce shine; it conditions against the harmful effect of sun and wind. What’s more, it’s a speedy scalp refresher when there’s no time for a shampoo.”
In 1965, Germaine Monteil introduced three new cleansers aimed at adolescent and younger women – Clarity, Beauty Beads, and Super-Clean. Super-Clean and Beauty Beads were foaming cleansers worked into the skin with a Beauty Brush, a small nylon brush also added in 1965. Both Clarity and Beauty Beads were medicated to help resolve skin blemishes but I have no records of the antiseptic that was used.
Super Clean: “[A] high potency face wash for all skin types. Rids your face of tired make-up, surface soil and troublesome hidden dirt.”
Clarity: “[For the] treatment of blemishes and acned skin. It’s greaseless, mildly antiseptic and a highly active formula.”
Beauty Beads: “[F]ine milled and medicated for skins with a problem, helps calm and clear while it cleanses.”
Beauty Facial Brush: “[A] new fun-to-use brush that gets after every last pore. It’s gentler and so much more stimulating than a hand massage.”
Other lines
Other skin-care lines added between 1945 and 1970 included Hand Balm (1949), a hand lotion; Supersec (1949), a cream deodorant; Throat Firmer Cream (1951), a contour cream for the throat; Super-Smooth Body Lotion (1956), an aqua-tinted body moisturiser; Supersec Flo-Top (1959), a roll-top deodorant and antiperspirant; Super-Masque (1962), an opalescent pink emulsion used as a ten-minute mask; Super-Moist Mask (1966), a moisturising mask; and Acti-Vita Cream (1968) a night cream containing vitamins, protein, emollients and moisturisers designed for women with dry skin.
Hand Balm: “A few drops several times a day will help to keep your hands and elbows soft and young.”
Supersec Deodorant: “[A] delicate, non-irritating cream, highly efficient and stain proof.”
Throat Firmer Cream: “[S]timulates circulation, inspires resilient tissue, and leaves the skin silken smooth and sleek.”
Super-Smooth Body Lotion: “A small amount after your bath spreads soothing protection over your whole body and swiftly restores skin moisture.”
Supersec Flo-Top: “A deodorant and anti-perspirant for the fastidious to sooth and refresh the tenderest of skins.”
Super-Masque: “[A] fragrant liquid that doesn’t dry or pull on your skin but leaves it firm, with a smoothness you can feel and a radiance you can see. It’s
ideal for quick pick-up to get you ready for a big evening after a trying day.”
Super-Moist Mask: “[W]ill make your skin look as though it has never known a day of drought. Regular use seems to compel skin to retain the lubricants it needs, while helping it regain youthful contours. Stroke on Super-Moist Mask with the exciting new Beauty Bristles.”
Acti-Vita Cream: “[H]elps to smooth away skin fatigue with a fluffy peach cream … helps maintain normal skin tone and aids in the natural circulation. Skin appears to be satin like and glowing with regular use of cream.“
By 1971, Acti-Vita Cream formed part of an extended Acti-Vita range which also included: Acti-Vita Enriched Moisturizer; Acti-Vita Line Smoothing Formula; Acti-Vita Rich Whipped Cleanser; Acti-Vita Pure Cream Toner; Acti-Vita Cream Foundation in Beige, Bisque, Bronze, Tawn, Ivory, Peach, Porcelaine, Rose, and Transparent shades; and Acti-Vita Face Powder in Beige, Pink, and Tan shades.
Facial routines
Germaine Monteil combined skin-care and make-up cosmetics into a series of facial routines as, for example, in this Bio-Miracle Treatment (1962):
Step 1: Before retiring cleanse, moisturize, refresh with Super-3 Liquid Cleanser.
Step 2: Moisten a cotton pad with Super-Tone Skin Conditioner and sweep over the face and neck. This tightens, tones, and stimulates.
Step 3: Smooth a mist-film of Bio-Miracle Cream with Biotene on your immaculate skin. It is instantly absorbed to further the skin’s own urge to “right” itself.
Step 4: Follow with a thin film of Super-Royal Cream over face and throat.
Step 5: In the morning, apply Super-Moist Beauty Emulsion before make-up for the “cushion” of moisture every skin needs.
Step 6: The perfect finish, Bio-Miracle Make-up, to beauty-treat your skin all day and provide the most flawlessly beautiful “surface” you have ever seen!(Germaine Monteil advertisement, 1962)
Above: 1969 Germaine Monteil Beauty Box containing Super-3 Liquid Cleanser, Super-Tone Skin Conditioner, Super-Moist Beauty Emulsion, and Super-Royal Cream.
These could be altered according to the perceived needs of the customer. For example, the Germaine Monteil Beauty Box (above) replaced Bio-Miracle Cream with Super-Royal Cream, leaving the make-up base to the discretion of the client.
Most of the beauty routines suggested by Germaine Monteil were for normal or dry skins associated with mature women. However, Germaine Monteil did include treatments for blemished skin such as the one listed below which includes the use of two pre-war cosmetics – Rose Skin Cream, and Plastic Mask:
1. Your first step is cleansing with SUPER-TONE SKIN CONDITIONER. This antiseptic, cleansing, stimulating lotion is used on a pad of cotton massaged briskly over face and neck, Change pad as often as necessary till skin sparkles with cleanliness. SUPER-TONE deep cleanses, purifies, clarifies, removes excess secretions. Use it constantly as your only cleanser until skin begins to normalize.
2. In about two weeks, you may cleanse first with Super-3 Liquid cleanser which slips under accumulations and helps float them out. (G-62, special ingredient in Super-3, discourages surface bacteria too!). Then follow with SUPER-TONE as described above. (A rinse with Skin Freshener brings a flower-fresh feeling to the skin, and should follow SUPER-TONE when blemishes begin to disappear.)
3. While you sleep, allow the medicated qualities of SUPER-TONE to heal and purify. If outer cheeks are dry, lubricate with gentle, moisturizing Rose Skin Cream or Super-Royal Cream.
4. In the morning, cleanse again with SUPER-TONE, then rinse with Skin ß. For a light-and-lovely make-up base, apply: Super-Moist Beauty Emulsion to moisturize and refresh as it holds powder on all day. For a glamour make-up at night, use Superglow Fluid Make-up over Super-Moist Beauty Emulsion.
5. Germain [sic.] Monteil’s Plastic Cream is an “extra stimulating must” for disturbed skins. Use this gentle, non-hardening mask after cleansing with SUPER-TONE at least 3 times a week to stimulate, clarify and refine the look of the pores. Allow to remain about 15 minutes, and rinse with warm water. Use during the day, or before retiring.(‘Treatment for troubled skin,’ c.1961)
See also: Treatment for Troubled Skins (c.1961)
Royal Secret
Germaine Monteil included a Bath Oil in the original product line that debuted in 1935. In 1960, Germaine Monteil began introducing the Royal Secret Beauty Bath range starting with Royal Secret Bath Perfume, and Royal Secret Bath Foam, after which came Royal Secret Luxury Mist, Royal Secret Bath Powder, Royal Secret Spray Perfume and Royal Secret Spray Concentree. I mention these because the company then added Royal Secret Luxury Lotion, a body Lotion, in 1963.
Royal Secret Luxury Lotion: “[P]ampers your skin, all over, with rich emollients and moisturizers as it bathes you with the delightful Royal Secret fragrance.”
Sun-care
In 1957, Germaine Monteil added two new sun preparations – Pour le Soleil and Super-Sol Creme – to Liqui-Tan which it had introduced in 1942.
Pour le Soleil was a coffee-colour gel designed to act as a sunscreen at the beach, pool or where other water activities took place. Super-Sol Creme was formulated for other outdoor activities and sports such as golf, tennis or driving. It acted as a skin protectant while leaving a fine powder on the skin to help shield the skin from the sun. Germaine Monteil also suggested it could act as a powder base. Both products were available in convenient to carry tubes.
Pour le Soleil: “[A] sun jelly which leaves a soft film on the skin as protection for a quick tan.”
Super-Sol Creme: “[A] subtly scented greaseless cream which disappears entirely into the skin leaving a dry powdery surface for a more gradual tanning.”
Make-up
Germaine Monteil continued to use her designer credentials to back claims for the superiority of her make-up.
THE MONTEIL LOOK
Just as a fashion designer’s certain look is recognized on sight, the make-up colors of Germaine Monteil are instantly – and internationally – recognized as the “Monteil Look.” Their beauty is legendary. For as a fashion designer works magic with fabric, Germaine Monteil creates the color-wonderments of the cosmetic world. Colors that dawn upon lips, eyes, complexions . . . emphasizing, dramatizing one feature at a time. Colors that skillfully play light against shadow, bright against muted. Colors that insist a face be the center of attraction, a beautiful extension of every fashion color a woman wears. For this woman, who may be awakening only now to her beauty potential, or luxuriating in the confidence of her new-found beauty.(‘The Creative Make-up of Germaine Monteil,’ c.1964, p. 24)
Like Germaine Monteil skin-care cosmetics, most additions to the company’s make-up range took place after 1950. Many followed the arrival of a new face cream and were tied to the cream by ingredient and name, a practice used by Germaine Monteil through the 1950s, 1960s and beyond. For example, Anatome Cream was followed by Anatome Fluid Make-up (1951); Super-Royal Cream (1956) by Super-Royal Lipstick (1958); Super-Moist Beauty Emulsion by Super-Moist Lipstick (1965); and Bio-Miracle Cream by Bio-Miracle Make-up (1960).
The most extensive make-up range introduced by Germaine Monteil in the 1950s was Superglow which started with Superglow Lipstick (1952) followed by Superglow Face Powder (1953), Superglow Fluid Make-up (1954), Superglow Solid Powder (1955) and Superglow Solid Satin (1959). All the items in the Superglow range contained Lumium, a proprietary light reflectant, optical dispersant which absorbed, scattered and/or diffused light making facial flaws such as fine lines and wrinkles less obvious. Common ingredients that have this property include mica, silica, and titanium dioxide and Superglow contained at least two of these.
Foundations and powders
In 1945, Germaine Monteil’s primary foundation was Beauty Balm – in White, Bronzé, or Muted Rose – which was applied under Germaine Monteil Face Powder. Both products were still in production in the 1960s but the Germaine Monteil Face Powder appears to have been renamed as Fashion Face Powder with a compressed form, Fashion Compact, added by 1964. Both Fashion Face Powder and Fashion Compact were ‘budget’ powders, costing at least half of other Germaine Monteil powders.
In 1945, Germaine Monteil added Sensitone Lotion, a foundation designed for oily or adolescent skins that found creamer foundations ‘too rich’. In 1952, the company then introduced Basic Sheen, a cream foundation to cover imperfections that came in two forms, with or without hormones. Other make-ups that followed included Anatome Fluid Make-up (1951), Superglow Fluid Make-up (1954) and Super-Royal Fluid Make-up (1957) all in very similar shade ranges, then Bio-Miracle Make-up (1960) and Half-Tone Cream Foundation (1966) in the 1960s.
Sensitone Lotion: “[C]onceals blemishes, keeps the skin fresh, clear and lovely throughout the day.” Shades: Natural, Sun Tan, and Muted Rose.
Basic Sheen (with or without hormones): “A new flowing cream foundation that entirely screens your complexion of tiny imperfections.” Shades: Rachel, Rose Rachel, Light Rosetta, Dark Rose Rachel and Dark Rosetta.
Anatome Fluid Make-up: “For skin care and skin beauty . . . this important cosmetic combines natural estrogenic hormones with long lasting make-up.” Shades: Beige, Bronze, Champagne Diamond, Muted Rose, Peach, Sunglow, and Sun Tan. Later shades included Ivory, and Naturelle (1953); and Jamaica Tan, Riviera Tan, and Pastel Rose (1957).
Super-Royal Fluid Make-up: “This foundation, containing Royal Jelly and Vitamin A, gives the complexion a day-long beauty treatment . . . as well as a luminous glow.” Shades: Ivory, Champagne Diamond, Beige, Sun Tan, Naturelle, Peach, Muted Rose, Sunglow, Pastel Rose, Bronzé, Jamaica Tan, and Riviera Tan.
Superglow Fluid Make-up: “The fluorescent quality in Lumium helps your skin reflect rather than absorb light rays . . . that gives the luminous candlelight look. It’s a lovely look, warm, beautiful, practically incandescent.” Shades: Ivory, Champagne Diamond, Beige, Sun Tan, Naturelle, Peach, Muted Rose, Sunglow, and Bronzé Shades added later included Jamaica Tan, Riviera Tan, and Pastel Rose (1957); and Pale Champagne and Honey Peach (1964).
Bio-Miracle Make-up: “Contains the regenerative Biotene compound which helps re-create the skin’s urge to nourish itself.” Shades: Miracle Beige, Miracle Rose, Miracle Ivory, Miracle Sun, Miracle Peach, and Miracle Diamond with Miracle Glow, and Miracle Pastel added in 1961.
Half-Tone Cream Foundation: “[B]lends with your own skin tone to make a totally new, beautiful complexion. It feels like fresh air. Still, it gives you the complete undetectable coverage you have always wanted, with a lovely clean shine that seems to come from within.” Shades: Neutral, Pink, Rose, Beige, Peach, and Bronze.
In 1953, Germaine Monteil added a second face powder to its make-up range, Superglow Face Powder, followed soon after by Superglow Solid Powder (1955) and Superglow Solid Satin (1959) in similar shade ranges.
Superglow Face Powder: “New ingredient, Lumium, reflects light rays instead of absorbing. Thus your skin radiates beauty even in the harshest light.” Shades: Frou-Frou, Skin Tone, French Rose, Deep Sunglow, Riviera Tan, Jamaican Tan, Porcelaine, and Camelia.
Superglow Solid Powder: “The only face powder in the world with the built-in glow of Lumium, Monteil’s self-lighting discovery. Now finely compressed and handsomely eased, it is neatly portable to help you take beauty with you wherever you go.”
Superglow Solid Satin: “[I]s so fine and soft, it’s like a translucent veil on your skin. Its natural loveliness lasts for hours and hours. This marvelous new process prevents powder from caking and streaking, seals in the famous lumium ingredient that mists any imperfections, imparts look of fresh and flawless beauty.”
To help its customers match its foundations and powders, Germaine Monteil provided its customers with information on how to coordinated their colours.
Above: c.1964 Colour coordination of Superglow and Fashion face powders with Fluid make-ups.
Along with new foundations and face powders, Germaine Monteil also added a number of new lines that acted as concealers, helped with colour control, or could be used to contour the face – Secret Light (1952), Color Secret (1962), and Color Blend (1962).
Secret Light was formulated with Lumium and could serve as a concealer/make-up base to soften harsh hollows, sagging lines, and unwanted shadows but could also be applied over make-up to give a translucent, youthful glow to a dull complexion. Color Secret was also a concealer but came in a range of shades for added colour control along with Pearlized White Secret that could be used to increase glow. Color Blend was an over-touch powder that helped disguise skin faults or strengthen facial contours. It came in a gold and white compact case.
Secret Light: “Light and lovely fluid makeup holds the secret of a flawless complexion for you . . . by hiding shadows and smoothing lines to give your skin the shining open look of carefree youth.
Color Secret: “[A] shimmering fluid tint to go under your make-up. Controls and neutralizes skin coloring faults, lets make-up stay ‘true’ as applied. Shades: Evening Sky, Morning Mist, Rose Dawn, Glowing Rose, White Secret, and Pearlized White Secret.
Color Blend: “Four warm and vivid powdered tints (pressed into compacts) sweep bright beauty over face and throat with a special inch-wide brush.” Shades: Fresh Pink, Sweet Peach, Desert Bloom, and Evening, with Paradise Tan, Night-Light Gold, and Night-Light Pink added in 1964.
Lipsticks and rouges
At the end of the Second World War, Germaine Monteil had twelve shades of lipsticks in its inventory – Cardinal, Geranium, Renaissance, Burma Ruby, Hot Pink, Pink Ice, Dark Fire, Singing Red, Smoulder Red, Red Africa, Theatre Red, and Azalea Pink. New shades introduced through to 1950 included: Coral Reef Day, and Coral Reef Night (1945); Azalea Evening (1946); and Golden Red (1948); with Azalea becoming Azalea Pink Day after the release of Azalea Evening.
Above: 1957 Germaine Monteil Standard/Jumbo lipsticks.
The introduction of Hazel Bishop’s Long Lasting Lipstick in 1950, started a trend for indelible lipsticks in the American market. In 1952, Germaine Monteil responded to this change in fashion by adding a new indelible lipstick called Superglow, the first make-up product in the Superglow range. Formulated with Lumium, G-12 and vitamin A, it came in a similar shade range to Germaine Monteil’s current lipstick, generally referred to as the Standard or Jumbo, which included the new Red Flash and French Rose shades.
When lipsticks moved away from indelibles towards creamier formulations later in the decade, Germaine Monteil added the already mentioned Super-Royal Lipstick (1956) formulated with royal jelly and vitamin A. Like Revlon’s Futurama (1955) and Helena Rubinstein’s Convertable lipsticks, it came in a highly decorated case that used ‘click-in click-out’ refills.
Above: 1958 Germaine Monteil ‘click-in, click-out’ Continental lipstick case. Germaine Monteil had been selling lipstick refills before the war but this made the process a lot easier.
Super-Royal Lipstick: “[A] lipstick containing wonderful Royal Jelly! It’s better for your lips than any lipstick you have ever used . . . it’s smoother . . . creamier . . . brighter . . . lovelier!” Shades: Morning Star, Venus Pink, Meteor Red, Stardust Pink, Tropical Dawn, and Starlight. Later additions included: Moonbright, and Sunset Red (1959); Desert Sun (1960); Evening Star (1963); and Sunshine Gold, Star Gold, Moon Gold, and Dusk Gold (1968)
Superglow Lipstick: “[G]ives your lips new intense brilliance and keeps them evenly colored until removed.” Shades: Hot Pink, Pink Ice, Muted Rose, Azalea Pink Day, Azalea Evening, Geranium, Singing Red, Red Flash, Theatre Red, Smoulder Red, Coral Reef Day, Coral Reef Evening, Burma Ruby, Cardinal, Golden Red, and Dark Fire. Later additions included: Frou-Frou (1953); Florida Red, and Red Fury (1955); and Romance Pink, and Pastel Rose (1957).
Germaine Monteil added a white lipstick to its existing lipstick lines in 1959 – called White Diamond in the Jumbo and Superglow lipsticks and Royal White in the Super-Royal lipsticks. These could be used to add a muted lustre over regular lipstick shades but could also serve as a touch up stick concealer.
Above: 1959 Jane Fonda [b.1937] wearing Royal White over a pink shade of lipstick.
In 1961, Germaine Monteil combined its Superglow and Jumbo lipsticks to create Super-Lumium, another creamy lipstick formulation with Lumium and vitamin A. It came in 22 colours that included 10 new shades. In 1963, Germaine Monteil added Lumium Plus, a white Super-Lumium equivalent to the earlier White Diamond (Jumbo and Superglow) and Royal White (Super-Royal) shades.
Super-Lumium Lipstick: “A surpassingly creamy lipstick, with high full gloss that lasts practically all day . . . combines its own special Lumium radiance with Vitamin A for smoothness!” Known shades: Red Fury, Singing Red, Red Flash, Rose, Pink Rose, French Rose, Muted Rose, Pink Glory, Tamango, Coral Reef Day, Florida Red, Poppy Red, Rosy Peach, Watermelon, and Riviera. Later additions included: Cherry Blossom, and Gay Coral (1962); Flamingo, Calypso, Paradise, Monteil Coral, Pink Rose, Cherry Brandy, Claret Red , Burgundy Red (1963); Merry-Go-Pink, Rousing Red, Navy Pink Day, Navy Pink Evening, Cool Sands, and Muu Muu (1964); and Pink Shell-Tint, Coral Shell-Tint, Beige Shell-Tint, and Mauve Shell-Tint (1965).
Lumium Plus: “Lighten your way into evening with a new colorless, greaseless lip cosmetic that adds a lovely lustre and translucence' to your makeup. It can be used alone as lip accent or over day-time lipstick to achieve an illuminating glow on lovely contoured lips.”
Super-Lumium was followed by Super-Moist Lipstick in 1965. Like Super-Royal and Super-Lumium, it also came in a ‘click-in, click-out’ case. I also note Super-Creme Lipstick (1970), released after the company was sold in 1968.
Super-Moist Lipstick: “New high-fashion colors in a totally new kind of lipstick that will keep your lips soft and smooth from the first moment you slip it on.” Shades: Glistening Pink, Glistening Melon, Glistening Red, Pink Splash, Apricot Splash, Red Splash, Moist Pink, Moist Coral, Moist Rose, Sea Rose, Sea Peach, Sea Anemone, Iced Pink, Iced Melon, Iced Mauve, and Iced Beige, with French Red, American Red, and Spanish Red added later in the year. Later additions included: Peppertint, Pinkberries, Indian Orange and Plumgranats (1969); and Gilty Rose, Glassy Peach, Pink Glorious, and Red Glisten (1970).
Super-Creme Lipstick: “[This] ultra-creamy, high gloss lipstick formulation is semi-translucent but gives complete coverage. It stays on for hours without any caking or change of color in the lips.” Shades: Flowering Plum, Khayyam Coral, Lotus Beige, Oriental Poppy, Persian Pink, Pink Camellia, Wild Apricots, Wisteria, Frosted Candied Peaches, Frosted Pink Champagne, Frosted Ginger Crystals, and Glossine.
Most cosmetic companies in the 1950s and 1960s matched their lipsticks with nail polish but Germaine Monteil did not have a nail polish in its inventory and would not do so until 1974. The company therefore coordinated its lipsticks shades with its dry or cream rouges or released them in combination with matching face make-up. There was no one-to-one correspondence between Germaine Monteil lipsticks and rouges with the company only having a dozen or so rouge shades in its range.
Above: c.1964 Colour coordination of Super-Lumium and Super-Royal Lipsticks with Dry and Cream Rouges.
After Germaine Monteil was sold, the new owners added two new forms of rouge – Gel-Rouge (1969) in shades that matched new shades of Super-Moist Lipsticks; and Super Sheen (1969), a swivel-stick blusher released with Super-Bronze Make-up, which also came in a swivel stick in Light and Dark Bronze shades.
Gel-Rouge: “[B]ringing a natural see-thru glow to the face.” Shades: Peppertint, Pinkberries, Indian Orange and Plumgranats; with Gilty Rose, Glassy Peach, Pink Glorious, and Red Glisten added in 1970.
Super Sheen: “[A] glowing blush of healthy shine in a stick.” Shades: Pink, Peach, Apricot, and Translucent Pearl.
Eye cosmetics
Eye creams and eye make-up were both included in the original Germaine Monteil range. The company began updating its eye make-up range in the 1950s but did not add Super-Eye Cream until 1961 with a later version made containing royal jelly and vitamin A.
Super-Eye Cream: “For the dewy freshness it gives her eye make-up and the kindly protection it gives the delicate, skin around her eyes.”
Updates to Germaine Monteil eye make-up began in 1965 with the arrival of a series of cosmetics badged as Idol-Eyes starting with Idol-Eyes Creme Mascara, Idol-Eyes Eye Shadow Stick, and Idol-Eyes Pencil.
Above: 1956 Idol-Eyes Creme Mascara and Eye Shadow Stick.
Later additions included: Idol-Eyes Cake Mascara (1957); Idol-Eyes Liquid Eyeliner (1959) formulated with Lumium and packaged with a built-in sable brush for easy application; and Mascara Swirl (1958), an automatic mascara using the same applicator as Helena Rubinstein’s Mascara-Matic (1957).
Idol-Eyes Creme Mascara: “[T]o frame your eyes in dramatic beauty! Waterproof and easy to apply. Packed with its own brush in a convenient plastic container.” Shades: Black, Brown and Blue.
Idol-Eyes Shadow Stick/Crayon: “[L]eaves a trail of luminous color on your lids . . . in a smart golden case. Shades: Golden-Brown, Blue Gray, Smoke Blue, Surf, and Moss Green with a Pearl overglow. Later shades included Precious Jade,
French Lilac, Sky Blue, Tender Blue, Gentle Green, Cat’s Eye Green, Lynx Green, Pure Turquoise, Naturelle, Taupe, Platinum Sable, Tiger Eye, Platinum, and Silver Fox.
Idol-Eyes Pencil: “[L]ine your lashes or etch in your brows.” Shades: Black, Brown and Blue.
Idol-Eyes Cake Mascara: “[C]overs lashes with dark brilliance but leaves them supple shining and curved.” Shades: Black, Blue, Brown, Blue-Black, and Chestnut, with Jade, and Charcoal Gray added by 1957.
Idol-Eyes Liquid Eyeliner: “Lumium lights your lids with colors such as dreams are made of—brilliant hues that shimmer with light-reflecting magic like the fairy dust that paints on a butterfly’s wing.” Shades: Nutmeg, Walnut Brown, Laurel Green, Nile Green, Sky Blue, Pure Turquoise, French Lilac, Navy Blue, Royal Blue, and Black Onyx.
Idol-Eyes Mascara Swirl: “The nicest, neatest way yet found to put on your mascara. Chic golden applicator makes it easy to apply mascara with a light touch.” Shades: Blue, Brown, and Black.
See also: Automatic Mascara
In the 1960s, a decade known for its eye make-up, Germaine Monteil continued expanding its range of eye make-up to include: Color Brow Cake for eyebrows; Cake Eye Shadow (1965) in a two-shade compact with four shades for day and two luminescence shades for night; Super-Lash Mascara; Eye Lash Tippers (1965); Idol-Eyes Eyelashes (1966); Super-Lash Cream and EyeGleams (1967); along with a number of Eyeliners.
Color Brow: “[T]he brush on way to a soft definition for eyebrows.” Shades: Blonde, Brown, Titian, Grey, and Black.
Cake Eye Shadow: “The first brush-on eye shadow to contour lid and bone in color, to a compact containing two coordinated shades of the game hue to light and dark tones that won’t fade, cake or crease. With a dual bias-brush.” Shades: Smoky Topaz, Precious Jade, Blue Opal, Amber Brown, Green Luminescence and Blue Luminescence.
Super-Lash Mascara: “[G]ives your own lashes the illusion of extra length and thickness without the addition of foreign material.” Shades: Blue, Brown, and Black.
Eyelash Tippers: “[D]ivine dabs of color planted right on the very end of your lashes.” Silver Blue, Iridescent Blue, Silver Mauve, Iridescent Mauve, Copper Gold, Green Gold, Gold, and Silver.
Idol-Eyes Eyelashes: “[R]eal hair, contoured, trimmed, feathered, lightweight and long lasting. Nothing is more flattering! In light and heavy textures, brown or black.”
Eyegleams: “[W]hisper-weight color creams that come with an all-over shade for lid and bone, plus a deep-hued Definer for accent . . . applied to perfection with special Eyegleams Brush.” Shades unknown.
Super-Lash Cream: “[T]o silken lashes to lustrous density while you sleep or under mascara, during the day.”
Using make-up
As well as colour coordinating its different forms of make-up mentioned above, Germaine Monteil also made suggestions on how to select and coordinate different shade according to the clothing a woman was wearing or by season. Examples were also given on how to use make-up to produce a specific ‘look’ such as the ‘Dramatic Look’, ‘Romantic Look’ or ‘Gala Look’, which had more emotive appeal.
Germaine Monteil also provided its clients with information on how to contour faces using make-up techniques that stretched back to at least the 1930s. In the 1960s this also included a series of suggestions on how to get different effects with eye make-up.
Above: c.1964 Applying make-up to change the perceived shape of the eye.
See also: Corrective Make-up (Contouring)
Youth market
In 1945, Germaine Monteil was also not well placed to sell cosmetics to the rising youth market that developed after the war. Understandably, its pre-war range was aimed at more mature women, the same women that might buy or aspire to buy Germaine Monteil clothing.
Germaine Monteil cosmetics were not totally devoid of treatments for adolescent skin. It had an Acne Cream and Lotion in its range and supplemented this with a new Medicated Skin Lotion in the late 1940s.
Medicated Skin Lotion: “[S]cientifically developed to remedy sensitive or adolescent skins inclined to acne or eruptions.”
However, it was not until 1965, that the company developed an integrated treatment regime for adolescent skin, the previously mentioned Clarity, Beauty Beads, and Super-Clean cleansers. After Germaine Monteil was sold in 1968 most of these products were grouped into a Clarity range aimed at adolescent and younger women which included Clarity Super Cleanser, Clarity Beads, Clarity Astringent, Clarity Medicated Treatment, and Clarity Color-Timed Refining Masque.
Germaine Monteil also began to more seriously market its make-up range to younger women. These women tended to use more make-up than their mothers and rising standards of living meant they could aspire to using Germaine Monteil cosmetics. As noted previously, the company placed advertisements in magazines that catered to younger women. Many of the advertisements featured as ‘Miss Monteil’ using younger models using the same Germaine Monteil make-up as their older counterparts.
Above: 1966 The “Monteil Look” for Romantics for more mature women: Half-Tone Rose, Blue hues of Cake Shadow and Liner, and Early Rose Super-Moist Lipstick; and the “Miss Monteil Look” for Romantics for younger women: Half-Tone Pink, Mauve hues of Cake Shadow and Liner, and Early Poppy Super-Moist Lipstick.
See also: Simple Steps to Beauty (c.1958) and The Creative Make-up of Germaine Monteil (c.1964)
Sale
The companies associated with Germaine Monteil were sold to British American Tobacco (BAT) for US$36.5 million joining Lenthéric and Yardley. In 1970, BAT would put all of its cosmetic acquisitions, which included Lenthéric, Yardley, Morny, Germaine Monteil, Tuvaché and Scandia, into a new holding company, British American Cosmetics Ltd. (BAC). BAT would later decide to get out of cosmetics and sold BAC to Beecham in 1984.
Beecham sold the United States rights to Germaine Monteil to Revlon in 1987 but these were sold to John A. Benckiser GmbH (West Germany) in 1991. Benckiser had already bought the European business of Germaine Monteil from SmithKline Beecham in 1990 along with a number of other fragrance and cosmetic firms.
In 2011, Germaine Monteil became a subsidiary of BRAIN AG with Wilde Cosmetics GmbH as a minority shareholder. The two companies entered into a strategic partnership in 2019 with Brain AG selling all of its shares in Germaine Monteil to Wilde who now operate Germaine Monteil International GmbH from Oestrich-Winkel, Germany.
Postscript
When Germaine Monteil was sold in 1968, the Bjorkmans used some of the money they earned from the sale to become that largest individual shareholders in Technicolor, Inc. later sold to the MacAndrews & Forbes Group in 1983. After Germaine Monteil died in 1985, Guy Bjorkman retired to Geneva, taking with him a collection of Impressionist and Post Impressionist paintings he had bought with Germaine in the years immediately following the Second World War. These were auctioned by Christies in 2000 after Guy Bjorkman died. The money, amounting to many millions, went to charity.
Timeline
| 1945 | New Products: Anatome Cream; and Sensitone Lotion. |
| 1949 | New Products: Hand Balm; and Supersec. |
| 1950 | Laboratory and factory established in France. |
| 1951 | New Products: Anatome Fluid Make-up. |
| 1952 | New Products: Superglow Lipstick; and Secret Light. |
| 1953 | Germaine Monteil Parfums separated from Germaine Monteil Cosmetiques. New Products: Superglow Face Powder. |
| 1954 | New Products: Superglow Fluid Make-up. |
| 1955 | New Products: Super-3 Liquid Cleanser; and Superglow Solid Powder. |
| 1956 | New Products: Super-Royal Cream; Super-Smooth Body Lotion; Idol-Eyes Eye Make-up; Suntan Oil; and Tan-Pruf Lotion. |
| 1957 | New Products: Super-Royal Fluid Make-up; Pour Le Soleil; and Super Sol Creme. |
| 1958 | New York headquarters moved to 730 Fifth Avenue. New Products: Super-Royal Lipstick; Mascara Swirl; and Super-Moist Beauty Emulsion. |
| 1959 | Tuvaché, Inc. acquired. New Products: Bio-Miracle Cream; Super-Tone Skin Conditioner, Idol Eyes Liquid Eye Liner; and Supersec Flo-Top. |
| 1960 | New Products: Bio-Miracle Make-up; and Royal Secret Luxury Bath range. |
| 1961 | Germaine Monteil available in the UK. New Products: Super-Lumium Lipstick. |
| 1962 | New Products: Color Secret; and Color Blend. |
| 1963 | New Products: Royal Secret Luxury Lotion. |
| 1965 | New Products: Cake Eye Shadow; Eye Lash Tippers; Beauty Beads; Clarity; Super-Clean; and Facial Brush. |
| 1966 | New Products: Idol-Eyes Eyelashes; Super-Moist Mask; and Beauty Bristles. |
| 1967 | New Products: Super-Lash Cream; and EyeGleams. |
| 1968 | Germaine Monteil bought by British American Tobacco (BAT). New Products: Acti-Vita Cream. |
| 1969 | Germaine Monteil (UK) Ltd. founded. New Products: Gel-Rouge; Super Sheen; and Super-Bronze. |
| 1970 | Germaine Monteil grouped into British American Cosmetics (BAC). New Products: Super-Creme Lipstick. |
| 1973 | New York headquarters moved to 40 West 57th Street. |
| 1977 | Germaine Monteil Perfumes bought by Bayer A.G. |
| 1984 | Beecham buys BAC including Germaine Monteil. |
| 1985 | Germaine Monteil (UK) Ltd.closed |
| 1987 | Germaine Monteil (US) bought by Revlon. |
| 1990 | Joh. A. Benckiser GmbH buys the European business of Germaine Monteil from SmithKline Beecham. |
| 1991 | Revlon sells Germaine Monteil to John A. Benckiser GmbH. |
| 1992 | Germaine Monteil becomes Monteil Paris. |
| 2011 | Germaine Monteil jointly owned by BRAIN AG and Wilde Cosmetics GmbH |
| 2019 | Brain AG and Wilde Cosmetics become strategic partners. |
First Posted: 18th May 2022
Sources
The American perfumer & essential oil review. (1906-1955). New York: Robbins Perfumer Co. [etc.].
The drug and cosmetic industry. (1932-1997). New York: Harcourt Brace Jovanovich [etc.].
The chemist and druggist. (1859-) London: Morgan Brothers.
Germaine Monteil. (c.1953). Anatome fluid make-up [Booklet]. USA: Author.
Germaine Monteil. (c.1958). Simple steps to beauty [Booklet]. USA: Author.
Germaine Monteil. (c.1961). Treatment for troubled skins [Booklet]. UK: Author.
Germaine Monteil. (c.1964). The creative make-up of Germaine Monteil [Booklet]. USA: Author.
Germaine Monteil [1898-1985], a.k.a. Marie Germaine Moratille, and Germaine Bjorkman.
1945 Sensitone Lotion.
1945 Azalea Evening Lipstick.
1945 Muted Rose.
1946 Anatome Cream.
1946 Eye Bath, Eye Cream, Eye Shadow, and Mascara.
1947 Night Skin Cream and Rose Skin Cream.
1947 Germaine Monteil. This unusual advertisement may have been stimulated by the French paintings the Bjorkmans were buying at the time.
A sculptural representation of a image widely used in Germaine Monteil advertisements after the war.
1948 Germaine Monteil.
1950 Beauty Balm and Face Powder.
1952 Superglow Lipstick.
1954 Superglow Fluid Make-up.
1955 Supersec Cream Deodorant.
1955 Super-3 Cleanser.
1955 Superglow Solid Powder.
1955 Anatome Fluid Make-up.
1956 Germaine Monteil.
1957 Super-Royal Fluid Make-up.
1957 Germaine Monteil Lipsticks in Jumbo Case.
1958 Super-Moist Beauty Emulsion.
1958 Pour le Soleil, Super-Sol, and Liqui-Tan.
1958 Super-Royal Lipstick in a refillable ‘click-in, click-out’ Continental case.
1958 Super-Smooth Body Lotion.
1959 Idol-Eyes Eyeliner.
1959 Superglow Solid Satin.
1960 Bio-Miracle Cream.
1961 Germaine Monteil available in London.
1961 Super-Lumium Lipstick.
1962 Color Secret.
1962 Super-Masque.
1963 Royal Secret.
1963 Germaine Monteil Oval Compact.
1963 The Monteil Look.
1964 Sun-care cosmetics (France).
1965 Super-Moist Lipstick.
1965 Idol-Eyes Cake Eye Shadow.
1965 Gentle Contrast Look.
1965 Miss Monteil Dramatic Look featuring Eyelash Tippers, Color Blend and Super-Moist Lipstick.
1965 Super-Clean and Facial Brush.
1966 Super-Moist Mask.
1966 Night Shades.
1966 Cake Eye Shadow.
1967 Super-Eye Stick, Super-Lash Cream, Super-Eye Cream and EyeGleams.
1967 Clarity.
1967 Supermoist Color Controllers: Nightshade Mint, Nightshade Ice, Nightshade Gold, and Nightshade Violet (Britain). I have been unable to find this product replicated in America.
1968 Acti-Vita Cream.
1968 Super-Royal gold flaked lipsticks.
1968 Super-Sheer make-up.
1969 Lipglints and Gel Rouge.
1969 Super Sheen and Super-Bronze.